Cribbage Rules

1 Equipment Needed

Before starting a game of cribbage, ensure you have the proper equipment:

• Standard 52-card deck: Remove jokers. The cards rank from King (high) to Ace (low).
• Cribbage board: This special scoring device has 120 holes for each player, arranged in two or three parallel rows. Most boards also have extra holes for keeping track of games won.
• Two pegs for each player: These fit into the board holes. Players use two pegs to track scores - the back peg marks the previous score while the front peg shows the current score.
• Flat playing surface: Enough space for the board, cards, and discards.

Note: While digital cribbage boards exist, the traditional wooden board with pegs is recommended for the authentic experience.

2 Choosing the First Dealer

The game begins with determining who deals first. There are two common methods:

• Card Cut: Each player cuts the deck. The player showing the lowest card deals first (Ace is lowest). If cards are equal, recut.
• Mutual Agreement: Players simply agree who should deal first.

In cribbage, the deal alternates each hand. The player who deals first in the current hand will be the non-dealer (or "pone") in the next hand.

3 The Dealing Process

Once the dealer is determined, follow this precise dealing procedure:

• The dealer shuffles the cards thoroughly and offers the deck to the opponent for cutting.
• The non-dealer cuts the deck, leaving at least four cards in each portion.
• The dealer then deals six cards face down to each player, one at a time, starting with the opponent.
• Cards should be dealt clockwise if more than two players are playing.
• The remaining deck is placed face down in the center of the table - this becomes the stock.

Important: In tournament play, if a player deals out of turn or with an incorrect number of cards, the opponent may demand a redeal.

4 Forming the Crib

After receiving their six cards, each player selects two cards to discard:

• Both players choose two cards from their hand and place them face down in front of the dealer.
• These four cards (two from each player) form "the crib" - an extra hand that belongs exclusively to the dealer.
• The crib remains face down until the end of the hand and is not looked at during the play phase.
• Strategic consideration: When discarding to your own crib (as dealer), choose cards that might work well together. When discarding to opponent's crib, try to avoid giving them scoring combinations.

After discarding, each player should have four cards remaining in their hand.

5 The Starter Card

The final setup step involves revealing the starter card (also called the "cut" card):

• The non-dealer cuts the remaining deck (the stock) once more.
• The dealer lifts off the top portion and sets it aside.
• The dealer turns over the top card of the bottom portion - this is the starter card.
• The starter card is placed face up on top of the stock. If it is a Jack, the dealer immediately scores 2 points ("two for his heels").
• The two portions of the deck are then reassembled with the starter card on top.

Critical rule: If the starter card is a Jack, the dealer pegs 2 points immediately before any play begins. This is the only scoring that occurs during setup.

6 Board Preparation

Before play begins, prepare the cribbage board:

• Each player places both of their pegs in the starting position (usually hole 0 at one end of the board).
• Players typically sit opposite each other with the board between them.
• The board should be positioned so both players can easily reach it for pegging.
• In some traditions, the player whose pegs are closest to the starting hole deals first.

The game is now completely set up and ready for the play phase to begin with the non-dealer leading the first card.

Setup Variations for Different Player Counts

While two-player cribbage is most common, the setup adjusts for other configurations:

• Three players: Each player is dealt five cards, and each discards one to the crib. The dealer deals an extra card to the crib from the deck after discards.
• Four players (partnership): Players opposite each other are partners. Each is dealt five cards, and each discards one to the crib. Partners combine their scores.
• Four players (individual): Each player is dealt five cards and discards one to the crib. Play proceeds clockwise from the dealer's left.

Regardless of player count, the basic setup principles remain: deal cards, form the crib, cut for starter, and prepare the board.

1Card Point Values

In cribbage, each card has a specific point value that remains consistent throughout the game:

• Aces (A): Always count as 1 point - they are the lowest value cards
• Number cards (2-10): Count at their face value (2 = 2 points, 3 = 3 points, etc.)
• Face cards (J, Q, K): All count as 10 points each, regardless of suit

Important distinction: While face cards all have the same point value (10), they maintain their individual ranks (Jack, Queen, King) for forming runs and other combinations.

2Fifteen Combinations (2 points each)

Any combination of cards that adds up to exactly 15 scores 2 points:

• Can be made with 2, 3, 4, or even 5 cards
• All possible combinations must be counted separately
• Example: 7♣ + 8♥ = 15 (2 points)
• Example: 5♦ + J♠ = 15 (2 points, since Jack = 10)
• Example: A♠ + 4♥ + 4♣ + 6♦ = 15 (A=1, 4+4+6=14, total 15, 2 points)
• Multiple fifteens in one hand score separately: 5♣ + 5♦ + 5♥ = three different 15s (5+10, 5+10, 5+10) = 6 points total

This is one of the most common ways to score points in cribbage.

3Pairs and Multiples

Cards of the same rank score points based on how many are combined:

• Pair (2 of a kind): 2 points
• Three of a kind (Royal Pair): 6 points (counts as 3 separate pairs: AB, AC, BC)
• Four of a kind (Double Royal Pair): 12 points (counts as 6 separate pairs)

Examples:

• Two 7s = 2 points
• Three Jacks = 6 points (J♠+J♥, J♠+J♦, J♥+J♦ = three pairs)
• Four 5s = 12 points (six possible pair combinations)

4Runs (Sequences)

Three or more consecutive cards, regardless of suit, form a run:

• Score 1 point for each card in the run
• Must be in consecutive order (A-2-3 is valid, A-2-4 is not)
• Can be extended with duplicates (double runs, triple runs)
• Suits do not matter for runs

Examples:

• 3-4-5 = 3 points (3-card run)
• 9-10-J-Q = 4 points (4-card run)
• Double run: 4-5-6 with an extra 5 = 8 points (4-5-6, 4-5-6 with the other 5)
• Triple run: 7-8-9 with two extra 8s = 15 points

5Flushes

Four or more cards of the same suit:

• Hand flush: All four cards in hand are same suit = 4 points
• Five-card flush: All four hand cards + starter card same suit = 5 points
• Crib flush: Only scores if all five cards (four crib cards + starter) are same suit = 5 points

Important rule: For a flush to score in the crib, all five cards must be the same suit. In your hand, only the four cards need to match (though you get an extra point if the starter matches too).

6Special Scores

These unique scoring situations occur in specific circumstances:

• "His Nobs": Jack of the same suit as the starter card (in your hand or crib) = 1 point
• "His Heels" (or "Two for his heels"): Jack as the starter card when turned up = 2 points for dealer immediately
• Last card (during play): Playing the last card of the hand = 1 point ("one for last")
• 31 (during play): Reaching exactly 31 in the play phase = 2 points
• 15 (during play): Reaching exactly 15 during play = 2 points

7Scoring Example Hand

Let's analyze a sample hand to understand how scoring works in practice:

Hand: 5♣, 5♦, 5♥, J♠ with Starter card: 5♠

• Fifteens: Four 5s (each 5 = 5 points) + Jack (10 points) = 15
  • 5♣ + J♠ = 15 (2 points)
  • 5♦ + J♠ = 15 (2 points)
  • 5♥ + J♠ = 15 (2 points)
  • 5♠ (starter) + J♠ = 15 (2 points)
  • That's 4 fifteens = 8 points total
• Pairs: Four 5s = 12 points for four of a kind
• His Nobs: J♠ matches starter suit (5♠) = 1 point
• Total score: 8 (fifteens) + 12 (pairs) + 1 (His Nobs) = 21 points!

This is why cribbage players get excited about holding multiple 5s - they combine well with face cards to make numerous 15-point combinations.

Scoring Strategy Tips

• Always count your hand systematically: first 15s, then pairs, then runs, then flushes, then special scores
• Remember that the starter card is part of your hand for scoring purposes
• In the play phase, try to make 15 or 31 for immediate points
• When discarding to the crib, remember that pairs and runs can score in the crib too
• The highest possible hand is 29 points (three 5s and a Jack, with the missing 5 as starter and Jack matching starter suit)

1Discarding Strategy - The Core Decision

Your discard choices are the most critical strategic decisions in cribbage:

• When you're the dealer (your crib): Discard cards that work well together. Pairs, cards totaling 15 (like 5-10, 6-9, 7-8), and consecutive cards (for runs) are ideal for your crib.
• When you're the pone (opponent's crib): Break up combinations. Discard cards that don't work well together - preferably one high card and one low card, or cards far apart in value.
• Never discard: A 5 (combines with any face card for 15), two cards totaling 5 or 15, or consecutive cards to opponent's crib.
• Good discards to your own crib: 5 and any face card (guarantees at least 2 points), pair (2-6 points potential), 7 and 8 (15 + run potential).

2Pegging Tactics - The Play Phase

Maximize points during the play while minimizing opponent's opportunities:

• Lead with a 4: The statistically best opening lead - forces opponent to play a high card (likely a face card) to reach 15, or play low and give you control.
• Avoid leading with a 5: Gives opponent easy 15 if they play a 10-point card.
• When possible, play cards that bring the count to 21: This forces opponent to play high cards (10-point cards) to avoid going over 31.
• Keep pairs in hand for pegging: If you have a pair, try to play the first card when count is low - opponent might play a matching card, allowing you to score a pair.
• "Trail" when ahead: If you're leading on the board, play conservatively. Don't give opponent opportunities for big pegging scores.

3Hand Selection Strategy

Choosing which cards to keep after the discard:

• Prioritize cards with multiple scoring possibilities: 5s are golden, 7s and 8s work well together, cards that can form runs with many possibilities.
• Consider the starter card potential: Keep cards that work well with many possible starter cards. A hand of 4-5-6 works with 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 as starters.
• Balance your hand: Try to keep both low and high cards to be flexible during pegging.
• When holding a 5: Always keep it unless you're discarding to opponent's crib. A 5 in hand has tremendous scoring potential.

4Positional Play - Understanding the Score

Your strategy should change based on the score:

• When far behind: Take risks. Try to score big hands and maximize pegging opportunities. You need to catch up.
• When comfortably ahead: Play conservatively. Avoid risks that could give opponent big scoring chances. Focus on maintaining your lead.
• Near the end of game (100+ points): Pay attention to position. If you're dealer near the end, you get first count of your hand AND your crib.
• The "stink hole": The position 120 points (one point from winning) is dangerous - if you overscore (get more points than needed), you must go back. Be careful!

5Counting Your Hand Efficiently

Develop a systematic approach to avoid missing points:

• Use the "15-2, 15-4" method: Count 15s first, saying "15-2, 15-4" as you find them.
• Then pairs: "and 2 makes 6, and 6 makes 12" for four of a kind.
• Then runs: Count the length of the run and multiply by 1 point per card.
• Always check for flushes: Quick glance at suits.
• Finally Nobs: Check if you have a Jack matching starter suit.
• Common missed combinations: Overlapping runs (4-5-6-6), multiple 15s using same cards in different combinations.

6Defensive Play

How to limit your opponent's scoring:

• During pegging: Avoid playing cards that bring count to 5, 10, 15, 20, 21, or 25 - these set up opponent for 15 or 31.
• Watch opponent's discards: If they discard two cards of the same suit, they might be keeping a flush. Adjust your play accordingly.
• Break up runs: If you suspect opponent is holding a run, play a card that breaks the sequence when possible.
• When opponent is dealer: Be extra careful with your discards. Assume any decent combination you give them will score.

7Advanced Tips for Experienced Players

• The "Rule of 26": Average hand scores about 8 points, plus 4 for pegging, plus 4 for crib when dealer = 16. Dealer averages 20, pone averages 12. As pone, you need to outpeg dealer by 8 points to break even.
• Card memory: Track which cards have been played, especially face cards and 5s.
• Endgame calculation: When near the end, calculate if you can win from your current position. Sometimes you need to play aggressively even with a good hand if it won't get you to 121.
• Psychological play: Vary your strategies. If you always lead with a 4, mix it up occasionally with other leads.
• Practice counting combinations: The faster you can count hands, the more you can focus on strategy.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

• Discarding a 5 to opponent's crib - this is essentially giving away points
• Leading with a 5 - sets up easy 15 for opponent
• Not counting all combinations - especially overlapping runs and multiple 15s
• Forgetting the starter card when counting your hand
• Playing too aggressively when ahead - protect your lead
• Missing "His Nobs" - always check if your Jack matches starter suit
• Overscoring at 120 points - be precise when one point from winning

Remember: Cribbage is a game of both skill and luck. Good strategy won't guarantee victory every time, but it will make you a winner in the long run.

1Setup and Deal

Let's follow a complete sample round between Alice (dealer) and Bob (pone).

• Players: Alice (dealer), Bob (pone)
• Current score: Alice 45, Bob 50 (both pegs on their respective tracks)
• The deal: Alice shuffles, Bob cuts. Alice deals 6 cards to each player.
• Bob's hand: 2♣, 5♦, 7♥, 8♠, 9♣, K♠
• Alice's hand: 3♠, 4♦, 5♠, 6♥, J♣, Q♦

2The Discard

Both players choose two cards to discard to the crib:

• Bob (pone, discarding to Alice's crib):
  • Looks at his hand: 2♣, 5♦, 7♥, 8♠, 9♣, K♠
  • Strategy: Since it's opponent's crib, avoid giving scoring combinations
  • Decision: Discards K♠ and 2♣ (high and low, no combination potential)
  • Bob keeps: 5♦, 7♥, 8♠, 9♣
• Alice (dealer, discarding to her own crib):
  • Hand: 3♠, 4♦, 5♠, 6♥, J♣, Q♦
  • Strategy: Put cards that work well together in her crib
  • Decision: Discards 4♦ and 6♥ (consecutive cards with run potential)
  • Alice keeps: 3♠, 5♠, J♣, Q♦
• The crib: Contains K♠, 2♣ (from Bob) and 4♦, 6♥ (from Alice)

3The Starter Card

Bob cuts the deck. Alice reveals the top card of the bottom portion:

• Starter card: 10♥
• Not a Jack, so no immediate points for "his heels"
• Starter is placed face up on the deck

Note: The starter card (10♥) will be used by both players when scoring their hands.

4The Play (Pegging) Phase

Players alternate playing cards, keeping running total ≤ 31:

Pegging summary: Bob scored 3 points total (1 for last card + 2 for fifteen). Alice scored 0 during pegging.

5The Show Phase - Bob's Hand

Bob counts his hand first (as pone):

• Bob's hand: 5♦, 7♥, 8♠, 9♣ with starter 10♥
• Counting:
  1. Fifteens: 5♦ + 10♥ = 15 (2 points)
  2. Runs: 7♥-8♠-9♣ = 3-card run (3 points)
  3. Pairs: None
  4. Flush: No, different suits
  5. His Nobs: No Jack
• Total: 2 (fifteen) + 3 (run) = 5 points

Bob pegs 5 points (now Bob 58, Alice 45)

6The Show Phase - Alice's Hand

Alice counts her hand (as dealer):

• Alice's hand: 3♠, 5♠, J♣, Q♦ with starter 10♥
• Counting:
  1. Fifteens:
     • 5♠ + J♣ = 15 (2 points)
     • 5♠ + Q♦ = 15 (2 points) Wait, check this: 5+10=15, yes
     • That's 4 points total
  2. Runs: None
  3. Pairs: None
  4. Flush: No, different suits
  5. His Nobs: Check Jack: J♣, starter is 10♥ - different suit, no point
• Total: 4 points

Alice pegs 4 points (now Bob 58, Alice 49)

7The Show Phase - Alice's Crib

Finally, Alice counts her crib:

• Crib cards: K♠, 2♣ (from Bob) and 4♦, 6♥ (from Alice) with starter 10♥
• Counting:
  1. Fifteens:
     • K♠ (10) + 4♦ + 2♣ = 16, no
     • K♠ (10) + 6♥ = 16, no
     • 4♦ + 6♥ + 2♣ = 12, no
     • Actually no fifteens possible!
  2. Runs: 2♣, 4♦, 6♥ - are these a run? NO! 2-4-6 are not consecutive (need 2-3-4 or 4-5-6)
  3. Pairs: None
  4. Flush: Check crib flush: All 5 cards same suit? K♠, 2♣, 4♦, 6♥, 10♥ - different suits
  5. His Nobs: No Jack
• Total: 0 points - a poor crib!

Alice scores 0 points from her crib. Final score this round: Bob 58, Alice 49

8Round Analysis and Lessons

What happened this round:

• Bob (pone): Scored 8 total points (3 pegging + 5 hand)
• Alice (dealer): Scored 4 total points (0 pegging + 4 hand + 0 crib)
• Key moments:
  • Bob's "Go" gave him 1 point
  • Bob's fifteen during play gave him 2 points
  • Bob's run in his hand was valuable (3 points)
  • Alice's crib was terrible - her 4♦ and 6♥ didn't combine well with Bob's K♠ and 2♣

Strategic insights:

• Bob played well as pone - he limited Alice's crib and capitalized on pegging opportunities
• Alice might reconsider her discard next time - while 4♦ and 6♥ have potential together, they didn't combine with random opponent discards
• Bob's keep of 5♦, 7♥, 8♠, 9♣ was smart - gave him both pegging flexibility and hand scoring potential
• Notice how the starter card (10♥) helped Bob make a fifteen but didn't help Alice much

The game continues with roles reversed - Bob becomes dealer for the next round!

1What happens if I accidentally deal too many or too few cards?

Answer: According to official tournament rules:

• If discovered before pegging begins, the opponent may choose to have the hand redealt.
• If discovered during pegging, play continues but the offending player cannot score points from their hand (though they can still score during pegging).
• In casual play, most players simply redeal if the error is caught early.

Tip: Count cards carefully during the deal to avoid this situation.

2Can I count the same card in multiple combinations?

Answer: Yes, absolutely! This is one of the most important scoring concepts in cribbage:

• A single card can be used in multiple fifteens
• A card can be part of both a run and a fifteen
• A card can be part of a run and also form a pair
• Example: Hand: 5♣, 5♦, 5♥, J♠ with starter 5♠
  • Each 5 can combine with the Jack to make fifteen (4×2 = 8 points)
  • The four 5s also make four of a kind (12 points)
  • Total: 20 points using the same cards in different combinations

3What's the highest possible hand score and how is it achieved?

Answer: The highest possible hand is 29 points, and there's only one way to get it:

• Hand: Three 5s and a Jack (all different suits)
• Starter card: The fourth 5 (matching the suit of the Jack in hand)
• Scoring breakdown:
  1. Eight fifteens (each 5 + Jack = 15, and each combination of three 5s = 15) = 16 points
  2. Four of a kind (four 5s) = 12 points
  3. His Nobs (Jack matches starter suit) = 1 point
  4. Total: 16 + 12 + 1 = 29 points

This hand is extremely rare - many lifelong cribbage players never see one!

4Do I have to say "Go" if I can't play without exceeding 31?

Answer: Yes, this is a required part of the game. The "Go" procedure:

• When you cannot play a card without exceeding 31, you must say "Go"
• Your opponent then continues playing if they can
• If opponent also cannot play, they say "Go" back, and the last player scores 1 point
• If opponent can play, they continue until they also cannot play without exceeding 31
• The player of the last card scores 1 point (or 2 points if it makes exactly 31)

Forgetting to say "Go" is a common beginner mistake that can disrupt game flow.

5What's the difference between "His Nobs" and "His Heels"?

Answer: These are two different Jack-related scores:

• "His Heels" (also called "Two for his heels"):
  • Scored when the starter card (the cut card) is a Jack
  • Dealer immediately scores 2 points before any play begins
  • Only the dealer gets these points
• "His Nobs" (also called "One for his nob"):
  • Scored when you have a Jack in your hand or crib that matches the suit of the starter card
  • Scored during the show phase when counting your hand
  • Worth 1 point
  • Both players can score this if they have the right Jack

Remember: "Heels" = starter Jack, "Nobs" = hand Jack matching starter suit.

6Can I look at the crib during the play phase?

Answer: No, absolutely not. Important crib rules:

• The crib remains face down and untouched during the entire play phase
• Only the dealer may look at the crib, and only during the show phase after both hands have been counted
• The non-dealer (pone) never looks at the crib unless they become dealer next hand
• Peeking at the crib during play is considered cheating in serious games

The crib's secrecy adds strategic depth - you must guess what might be in it based on discards.

7What happens if I overscore (get more points than needed to win)?

Answer: This situation has specific rules:

• If you peg more points than needed to reach 121, you must go back
• Example: You're at 119 points and score 3 points. You move to 121 then back to 122? NO! You only move forward the exact number of holes needed to reach 121
• In official rules, you cannot win with more points than exactly 121
• This creates the "stink hole" strategy at 120 points - be careful not to score too much!

In casual play, some players allow "overpegging" but tournament rules forbid it.

8Do runs have to be in sequential order during the play phase?

Answer: No, order doesn't matter for runs during pegging. Important distinction:

• During play (pegging): Cards form a run regardless of the order played, as long as they are consecutive in rank
• Example: Play sequence: 5, then 7, then 6 = run of 5-6-7 (3 points) even though 6 was played last
• During show phase: Cards in your hand don't need to be in order either - you just need the ranks

This allows for strategic run-building during pegging by playing cards out of sequence.

9What's a "Muggins" rule and should we play with it?

Answer: Muggins is an optional but popular rule:

• How it works: If a player fails to claim all the points they're entitled to during scoring, their opponent may call "Muggins!" and claim those missed points
• Example: You count your hand as 6 points but actually have 8 points. Opponent can say "Muggins, it's 8" and take the 2 extra points
• Strategy: Keeps players honest and attentive during scoring
• Casual vs. tournament: Often used in tournaments, optional in casual play

Decide before starting whether to play with Muggins. It's recommended for experienced players.

10Why does the game end at 121 points and not 120?

Answer: Historical and mathematical reasons:

• Board design: Traditional cribbage boards have 120 holes per player, but you need 121 to complete the "up and back" journey
• Game length: 121 points creates a game of appropriate length (about 30-45 minutes)
• Dealer advantage: Reaching exactly 121 ensures both players get equal number of deals in most games
• Historical: The scoring system naturally leads to 121 as a complete game based on average hand scores

Some play shorter games to 61 points (once around the board) or longer to 181, but 121 is standard.

Bonus Question: Is cribbage mostly skill or luck?

Answer: Both, but skill becomes more important over many games.

• Luck elements: Card distribution, the starter card, opponent's discards
• Skill elements: Discard strategy, pegging decisions, hand counting, board position awareness
• Expert consensus: In a single game, luck can dominate. Over a match or many games, the better player will win more often
• Statistical edge: Skilled players can maintain a 55-60% win rate against less skilled opponents

This blend of luck and skill makes cribbage appealing - beginners can sometimes beat experts, but experts will win in the long run.

Calculate Your Hand Score

Select your four cards and the starter card to calculate your cribbage hand score.